The Alcudia Guide, guide to the resort of Alcudia, Majorca (Mallorca), Spain
There truly are some beautiful beaches in the resort of Alcudia, Majorca (Mallorca), Spain There is beautiful countryside surrounding the resort of Alcudia, Majorca (Mallorca), Spain There is wonderful architecture throughout the town of Alcudia, Majorca (Mallorca), Spain Puerto Alcudia has a wonderful marina and harbour

THE RESORTS

Here we offer some personal views on the different resort areas. We try to be as objective in our ratings and opinions as possible. If you agree or disagree, let us know in the forum! Your views are very welcome. We also offer some general observations about things such as driving and tourist information.

     
Alcudia
Puerto Alcudia
Puerto Alcudia - the port itself
Puerto Alcudia - Magic and Ciudad Blanca
Puerto Alcudia - Bay of Alcudia
Playa de Muro
Alcanada
Barcares - Morer Vermell - Mal Pas - Bonaire
Click Resort to read more...


Other places :
Cala San Vicente Ca’n Picafort Formentor Inca Muro Pollensa Puerto Pollensa Sa Pobla Son Serra de Marina

General Observations : Driving Hours / time Keeping in touch Language Medical Pirated goods Post Offices Safety/Police Tourist information

 

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Alcudia

The town of Alcudia nestles along the southern part of the bay of Pollensa and behind mountainous headlands.

In addition to the town itself are the small resorts and areas of Barcares, Mal Pas, Bonaire, Coll Baix and Alcanada, the latter a quiet extension of Puerto Alcudia. Alcudia is an historic town with Roman, Byzantine and Moorish influences; it takes its name from the Arabic for “the hill”.

OUR RATINGS - ALCUDIA

Beaches in Alcudia : 7/10

Alcudia town as such has no beach, but to the north are the areas of Marina, Barcares and Mal Pas. The beaches here vary in their size and sandiness. Generally you find coves that are quieter than the port’s beach. Cala San Pedro at Mal Pas is a good example. Rocky around here, and some parts, like Bonaire, have no beach to speak of. Marina is much more exposed as it’s on the bay of Pollensa. It’s very popular with kite-surfers. Bonaire is a good centre for watersports and it boasts its own small marina.

Bars/Nightlife in Alcudia : 6/10

Don’t expect to rave in Alcudia town, but there are many bars and cafes open till quite late. Much more Mallorcan/Spanish than in the port, but there are some which are British-run such as La Sala, opposite the town hall. Many “bars” double as restaurants/cafeterias. There are a couple of British bars up in Morer Vermell to the north.

Restaurants in Alcudia : 9/10

Largely Mallorcan/Spanish/Mediterranean, Alcudia has some really first-class restaurants and there has been a discernible move up-market. Less overall diversity than in the port, not a Chinese in sight! But there is a Thai restaurant.

Highlighted eateries : Cas Capella,Sa Romana,

Shops in Alcudia : 7/10

The shopping in Alcudia is far more in keeping with what you might expect for a working town, so you will find electrical-goods stores and others that the port doesn’t have in quite the same number.
There is much of interest for the tourist though and much of quality. Several shoes and leather stores, and of course the market on Tuesday and Sunday has all manner of interesting things.

Highlighted shops : Agata, Chess, El 7, Sa Cisterna

Hotels in Alcudia : 8/10

The old town has seen the emergence of small designer hotels and these are terrific. Limited number of rooms and not cheap, but very different to the normal tourist hotel. Morer Vermell and Mal Pas have three tourist hotels.

Character and ambience : 9/10

Alcudia changes its character depending on time of day and indeed on what day it is. Tuesday and Sunday mornings it is heaving because of the market. While many visitors probably “do Alcudia” just for the market, the opportunity really should be taken to sample just how tranquil it is in the mid-afternoon, siesta time and to appreciate the atmosphere of a warm evening in somewhere that is far more authentic than the port.

Getting around Alcudia : 5/10

Unless you are relatively close to the town, it can be a trek getting in and out. On market days, the buses are packed and the queues for taxis to get away can be formidable. The town itself is compact so it’s easy enough once you’re there. From the outlying parts of Barcares, Mal Pas etc, one is reliant on the bus or a taxi, though the walk is not out of the question, and we know that people do trek in from the Pollentia Club Resort, which is on the bay of Pollensa past Marina. Parking - on days other than market days, this is ok.

The main parking by the church fills up quite early, but there is plenty of room on the unmade area opposite or in the parking by the hospital. Market days: nightmare!

Kids activities in Alcudia : 4/10

Apart from the beaches to the north, the town is not the place for entertaining kids. If they like markets or the Roman ruins, fine: then there is something. Be aware though that the markets can get very crowded and it does of course get very hot.

Sights : 9/10

The town of Alcudia and the unspoilt areas to its north are really the places to enjoy sights (as opposed to the port). The walled town and the church of Sant Jaume and the Roman ruins of the Ciudad Romana (Roman town) lend Alcudia its strong historical heritage.

The Roman town is a significant archaeological site, dating from the late second century BC, the exact date being put at 123BC when Pollentia (its name) was founded by Quinto Cecilio Metelo (after whom a rather uncharming street has been named). Pollentia was subsequently subject to development and destruction in fairly equal measure, and from the third century there was a lengthy period of “decadencia”, which means as it sounds in English but also translates as decline, though one suspects there was fair degree of decadence too. Nowadays it is possible to determine the general shape of the town and its street layout as well as the forum and temples.

The Roman theatre followed some while after the founding of Pollentia, at the end of the first century AD to be precise (or rather to be fairly imprecise).
It exhibits three elements that demonstrate it was indeed a Roman theatre and not a Greek one, as was initially thought when it was excavated in the early 1950s; these elements being - the “cavea” (the terraced seating) in a semicircular form, the “orchestra” and the wooden “scaena” (stage), raised slightly higher than the orchestra in front of it.

There is also another excavation dating from Roman times, Portella. This was a residential area which appears to have been developed in the first century AD and a wall added around the third century.

No archaeological site worth its name can do without its own museum, and so the Museo Monográfico de Pollentia was established in 1987 in what was an old hospital.

Away from the town itself heading north there are a number of possibilities for walks or for cycle trips into the mountainous area, to Coll Baix and to the Hermitage of La Victoria. This whole area is in stark contrast to the development of Puerto Alcudia:
peaceful, scenic and indicative of the “unseen Mallorca”.

Property for sale in Alcudia, Puerto Alcudia and Playa de Muro

Alcudia, Puerto Alcudia and Playa de Muro are all highly sought-after when it comes to property to buy, rent or for investment. The small area of Alcanada is one of the most desirous, as is Bonaire, which boasts some particularly impressive villas. The old town of Alcudia, within the city walls, is characterised by its town houses and the strict regulations regarding their appearance and development.

There is currently quite a bit of new development throughout Alcudia and Puerto Alcudia. Playa de Muro is predominantly residential and the host to impressive hotels. There are in Playa de Muro many fine villas as well as more economic apartments.

Highlighted agencies/websites for buying or renting : Costa Nord, Costamar, Engel & Völkers, Garden Lago, Going Direct, Majorcan Villas, Novi Property Mallorca, Premier Mallorcan Properties, Properties International, Simply Locate, Villa Pollentia - Alcudia, Villa Sa Pova - Alcudia, Villas Planet


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Puerto Alcudia

Puerto Alcudia enjoys a deserved reputation as an excellent holiday destination. The main beach in Puerto Alcudia is one of the finest to be found in the whole Mediterranean, and it boasts a multitude of bars, restaurants and shops.

The port area itself, that formed by the wide, pedestrianised promenade (the Paseo Maritimo) and the yacht marina, is modern and generally attractive without having any great cultural or architectural pretensions. Adjoining the port is Alcanada, a popular residential area which is a small resort of its own but without much in the way of beaches.

The Paseo Maritimo, which is due to be extended as far as the commercial port by summer 2006, ends where the Carretera Arta starts, this being the main road going through the rest of Puerto Alcudia to Playa de Muro and then on to Ca’n Picafort and ultimately to the historic town of Arta. The Carretera forms the “spine” along which the rest of the resort is situated.

As one comes out of the main port itself, the road crosses the Magic Roundabout (named as some have it because it’s magic if you manage to get round it).
From here, the Carretera runs parallel to the beach to the area known as Ciudad Blanca (white town or city, if you prefer). Within Ciudad Blanca is what is called -variously - the “Dollar Mile”, the “Golden Mile” or the “Greasy Mile”. To give it its actual name, Avenue Pedro Mas y Reus, this is at the heart of a bustling semi-resort in its own right, full of hotels, bars, restaurants etc. Sophisticated? Well no not really, but there is an enormous amount to do and to keep everyone entertained.

Moving past Pedro Mas y Reus, the Carretera is bound largely by residential property and the vast Esperanza (“Hope”) Lake, itself joined to two smaller lakes - Lago Menor and Lago Las Gaviotas. The lake stretches as far as the point where the Carretera crosses the boundary between Alcudia and Muro, thus entering Playa de Muro.

OUR RATINGS - PUERTO ALCUDIA - THE PORT ITSELF

Beaches in Puerto Alcudia : 10/10

Superb. Sandy and deep, so much so that you don’t get cramped for space. Water shallow. Usually enough breeze to take an edge of the heat. Well-maintained, lifeguards and medical provision. Walkway at the back of the beach. Beach bars and restaurants/bars/shops close by. The beach at Puerto Alcudia is rated with four stars, the highest award for an "excellent" beach.

Bars/Nightlife in Puerto Alcudia : 7/10

Plenty of bars, but there are few that stand out. The bars here are a mixture in terms of nationality, but quite a number are British-run or part-British-run. Nightlife, other than for bars that stay open till the wee smalls, is limited here, but there are a couple of music bars and - for something more exotic - a show girls bar. (Note: most bars also serve food of varying originality and quality.)

Highlighted bars/nightlife : Abranaxus

Restaurants in Puerto Alcudia : 8/10

In abundance - international, Mallorcan, Spanish, Mediterranean, fish and seafood, tapas, pizzerias, Italian, Chinese, Indian, Japanese ... . A really fine choice.

Highlighted eateries : Bodega D’es Port, Bodega Mosquito, Cafe L'illa, Cap Roig, Chilli, Fujiyama, La Recoleta, La Villa, Mestizo Cuina, New Delhi 1, Nova Marina,Steak House Carabela, Sa Taverneta d'es Moll, Varadero,

Shops in Puerto Alcudia : 7/10

Some good-quality fashion stores with an international flavour plus jewellery, gifts, shoes, tobacco etc etc. Quite a lot of tacky stuff but more than enough quality to compensate. Pretty good deals on drinks and tobacco.

Highlighted shops : Estanc Jofre, Foto Rapit, Iona, Little Britain, Perfumeria Venus, Pinturas Martins, Puddle Duck Elite Collectables,

Hotels in Puerto Alcudia : 8/10

One or two that had been showing their age have been given a makeover, Coral de Mar is brand new, the Alcudiamar Botel is classy, the Bahia has a wonderful garden with exotic birds. All round a very good standard.

Character and ambience : 7/10

More so at night, when the Paseo is really bustling, the yacht marina is delightful and the bars and restaurants behind the front line come alive. By day, nothing remarkable.

Getting around Puerto Alcudia : 8/10

If you’re staying in the port area, there’s no problem, nowhere is that far to walk. To get to Alcudia, the walk will take 20 minutes or so to the centre, depending where you are. There are buses, but - as always - they may be congested, especially on market days. Parking - is now pretty good. The main parking area is generally ok but weekend evenings can get packed quite early. Note: you cannot drive into the marina unless you have a pass.

Kids activities in Puerto Alcudia : 8/10 - Excellent beach, but apart from hotel provision there is a lack of specific activities apart from amusement arcades. There is a public sports hall and park and swimming-pool next to the horse roundabout but they’re not often frequented by visitors. In the marina and on the Paseo Maritimo, you will find a fair bit of choice in the way of cruises, plus sailing and catamarans.

Sights : 4/10

The marina and that’s about it. There is always the Rotonda Caballo (horse roundabout), which we mention purely because no one ever seems to know initially that the sculpture is in fact a horse. Cockerel, prawn, just two suggestions we’ve heard. Horse? Well it’s art, or is it?


OUR RATINGS - PUERTO ALCUDIA - MAGIC AND CIUDAD BLANCA

Beaches in Puerto Alcudia : 10/10

Comments for the port itself apply. Excellent. Plus watersports near to the Sunwing Resort complex.

Bars/Nightlife in Puerto Alcudia : 9/10

Bars a-plenty in the whole triangular area formed by Avenue Tucan, Carretera Arta and Avenue Pedro Mas y Reus. Generally speaking, most of the bars are British (or claim to be so), but the late-night music bars in the Magic Centre, behind the Hotel Delfin Azul and elsewhere are often extremely popular with the local youth. There are four discos of varying size, quality, facilities and standard of DJs.

Several places promote themselves as “family fun pubs”. Not everyone’s cup of tea, especially if you fancy a quiet drink, but they offer good entertainment. The inevitable karaoke can be enjoyed at several places, and there are a number of “niche” bars in terms of style and geography.

Highlighted bars : Bells, Canny Lad,Foxes Arms, Kaos, Red Lion, Sabor Latino,Vamps, Yummy Yummy

Restaurants in Puerto Alcudia : 7/10

Again, a whole host to choose from but with less diversity than you will find in the port itself. Generally the restaurants are “international” in character and lack something in atmosphere, but quality is pretty good. There seems to be a Chinese everywhere, but just the one Indian. Oh, and there’s a Pizza Hut, KFC and Burger King. Note that around here you can expect to be approached by people doing “public relations”, a quaint use of the term for enticing folk into restaurants. As mentioned above, most bars also serve food.

Highlighted eateries : El Toro, La Traviata Taste of India

Shops in Puerto Alcudia : 5/10

Pedro Mas y Reus has a load of stores selling perfumes, souvenirs, toys etc and a couple of good supermarkets with a great stock of spirits. Very much general tourist-style shopping of no great note.

Highlighted shops : Perfumeria Venus

Hotels in Puerto Alcudia : 7/10

Rather more in the way of all-inclusives in this area, such as the Reinas (Saturn, Jupiter and Mars) and Lagomonte, there is little that hits one as being on a “grand scale”, but the hotel quality is overall pretty high.

Character and ambience : 7/10

Parts are rather charmless if one is to be brutally honest, but the canals and the Lago Menor give the area a degree of attractiveness as does the backdrop of the mountain. In the evening this is a very lively part of Puerto Alcudia and there is a good atmosphere.

Getting around Puerto Alcudia : 7/10

Reasonable. From the Magic Centre to Pedro Mas y Reus is around 10-15 minutes’ walk, and to get to the port itself will take about 20 to 25 minutes. Buses go from the Carretera and from Pedro Mas y Reus and Avenue Tucan. If you are at one of the farther-flung hotels such as Bellevue or the Reinas, it’s a bit of a trek to the beach but buses to the beach are also available.

Kids activities in Puerto Alcudia : 9/10

Beach, beach and more beach, plus of course the waterpark. Several amusement and games’ places. Kids should never get bored here.

Highlighted kids’ (and adults’) activities : Hidropark, Karting Magic

Sights : 4/10

For the mountain, the lakes and the canals, but otherwise ...

PUERTO ALCUDIA - BAY OF ALCUDIA

This is the final part of Puerto Alcudia after Ciudad Blanca and up to where it meets Playa de Muro. The Lago Esperanza is to one side of the Carretera, the beach to the other.

As this is mainly a residential area we don’t give individual ratings but it is of course blessed by the same superb beach and has a few good hotels. The hotels and apartments are generally situated close to Ciudad Blanca or to Las Gaviotas (the area at the start of Playa de Muro), so getting around to bars etc is no problem. You would really need transport to get into the port itself especially if you’re at the Playa de Muro end.

Kids/adults’ activities : Didis Coast Adventure, Scuba Mallorca

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Playa de Muro

For many it is hard to be sure where Playa de Muro actually starts. There is a crossroads with a sign saying Muro (the playa is part of the municipality of Muro, the town itself being some 10 kilometres inland), but you could be forgiven for missing it.

Indeed there are plenty of traders who would welcome some rather stronger message that one is actually in Playa de Muro. While Playa de Muro enjoys the same superb coastline as Puerto Alcudia and a beach just as excellent, one cannot deny that it lacks something in character. Fine hotels, some pretty good restaurants and bars, but there is no focal point that would add something.

However, there are really two parts of Playa de Muro. The Carretera Arta crosses a river after the Esperanza Park apartments and things change. To the right is the reception to the vast wetlands that are S’Albufera, a remarkable area that is home to abundant wild- and plantlife. S’Albufera is a preserved nature park, the park itself extending to the dunes and the forest on the beach side of the Carretera.

This part of Playa de Muro is home to some magnificent hotels and also to the area known as Alcudia Pins. While there are a few bars and restaurants in Alcudia Pins, one can feel perhaps a little detached. But this area does feels very relaxed. One does have the option of course of going to Can Picafort or into the main part of Playa de Muro or even Puerto Alcudia. To alleviate a bit of the congestion on the buses there is the “Muro Express”, a train that isn’t a train as it goes on the road, which travels up as far the Las Gaviotas area close to the boundary with Alcudia.

OUR RATINGS - PLAYA DE MURO

Beaches in Playa de Muro : 10/10

The beach at Playa de Muro currently holds a blue flag and is rated with four stars, the highest award for an "excellent" beach. Not as deep as much of Puerto Alcudia’s but still excellent and sandy. Sea shallow and often breezy, good for kiting. Sufficient beach bars and refreshments, and lifeguards as far as the start of the forest. Watersports on the beach next to the Esperanza hotel/apartment complex.

After the start of the forest and as far as Ca’n Picafort, the beach can seem unmaintained in that there can be a build-up of small pieces of seaweed and other natural detritus. As this part of the beach is considered to form part of the nature park, it is not cleared but is not in any way unhealthy. No beach bars or lifeguards here but quieter.

Bars/Nightlife in Playa de Muro : 6/10

Family fun pubs and British/Irish bars, not all of them authentic. Ok, but little that is out of the ordinary. Mambo Playa Cafe has been renamed Mambo Buddha, catering for an older 21+ crowd.

Highlighted bars/nighlife : Mambo Buddha

Restaurants in Playa de Muro : 6/10

Haute cuisine is barely in evidence, but some good to excellent international places. Not a great deal of diversity, but there are several Chinese restaurants, an Indian, Burger King, pizzas and more pizzas, and a tex-mex due in 2006.

Highlighted eateries : Boy, Portobello

Shops in Playa de Muro : 4/10

Las Gaviotas has a good tourist supermarket, there are some reasonable boutiques and the inevitable spirits/tobacco outlets, but otherwise it’s a bit tacky. During the summer Playa de Muro has a market on Saturday mornings. It is not very big, certainly not compared to the vast market in Alcudia.

Highlighted shops : Tabacos Los Gaviotas

Hotels in Playa de Muro : 9/10

Two magnificent places - Palace de Muro and Parc Natural, others generally of a very high standard.

Character and ambience : 5/10

Would be lower if it weren’t for the areas past the bridge and opposite S’Albufera. The Alcudia Pins section has a pleasant air to it.

Getting around Playa de Muro : 4/10

Buses can get chocker, taxis cost more, the Muro Express is a neat alternative but not blessed with too many seats, otherwise it’s shanks’s.

Kids activities in Playa de Muro : 8/10

The beach is of course excellent for children. Pony rides and bouncy castle at Las Gaviotas, ponies also at Alcudia Pins. Trikes for hire all over the place, sufficient amusement arcades, otherwise check out the maze - a good laugh and nice people. Sports facilities and pools at the hotels; Alcudia Pins is well blessed.

Highlighted kids’ (and adults’) activities : El Laberinto Maze Fun Park

Sights : 7/10

Mainly because of S’Albufera, the dunes and forest, but there are also the weird towers dotted along the beach. The Playa de Muro tourist office is not sure of the exact history of these towers, assumptions being that they were either watchtowers to look out for smugglers or associated with the Civil War (or possibly both).

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OUTLYING PARTS -
As these are only small areas we give just a general outline.

Alcanada

The beach at Alcanada is rated with four stars, the highest award for an "excellent" beach. (Information source: Ultima Hora, 6 August 2005.) Alcanada is a residential area and very quiet. The beach is small and otherwise the coastline is generally rocky. There are no bars or nightlife, but three restaurants of high quality. Shopping is confined to a couple of small supermarkets. There is one hotel - the currently all-inclusive President - and the Alcanada Apartments. Alcanada is quite popular for villa rentals.

The “centre” of Alcanada is - by foot - quite a way from Puerto Alcudia; transport is really advisable. There is nothing specifically for children and there are no sights as such other than the fact that Alcanada is quite pretty. The golf course is quite pricey (70 euros for a round) and you must have a handicap.

Alcanada is really suited to those looking for a quiet and relaxing time. It is not ideal for children who need constant entertainment.

Barcares - Morer Vermell - Mal Pas - Bonaire

Treated as one as they all run into each other Essentially residential and quiet. Small sandy coves and rocks. A couple of bars with food, beach chiringuitos and a smattering of restaurants. No shopping as such. Three hotels - Mal Pas, Morer Vermell (aka More) and Panoramic. Villa rentals are also available.

Walking into Alcudia is a little daunting, especially in the heat, so transport is advisable. Not a lot for kids outside of the hotels and the beaches, but there are pony rides and watersports (scuba, snorkelling, kayaks). For those who enjoy the natural environment, there is quite a bit to see, especially for walkers and cyclists.

Barcares (et al) is for those who want to relax. For families who prefer a quieter spot, we would suggest that this area is better for children than Alcanada.

Cala San Vicente

This is a small and quiet resort between Puerto Pollensa and Pollensa. It’s a bit out on a limb and has - to be frank - lost some of its rather exclusive charm. Some fine hotels, and some restaurants and bars. Two small beaches.

For more detailed information on Cala San Vicente visit - www.thepollensaguide.com

Ca’n Picafort

This is the next town down from Playa de Muro, the Alcudia Pins area being separated from Ca’n Picafort by the forest. It is a pleasant enough place and has an enormous number of hotels (over 40) despite not being that big a resort. Ca’n Picafort also has a good beach, plenty of bars and restaurants and a pretty good nightlife. There is also a large go-karting track and a marina. Especially for those staying in Alcudia Pins it does offer an alternative in the evenings.

Formentor

Leaving Puerto Pollensa heading north-east you enter the peninsula that ends with the Cap de Formentor. The drive is not for the faint-hearted, but if you can bear it you are rewarded with some fabulous views - across the bay, of the cliffs and the pines. The beach at Formentor is fine and sandy and lies next to the Hotel Formentor, one of the island’s grandest hotels, opened in 1929 which was singularly unpropitious as it coincided with the start of the Depression and forced the hotel into bank hands.

Still, it survives and today, according to the hotel’s website - “respecting the classical beauty of the Mediterranean landscape that surrounds it, the hotel does not refuse the modern life’s new-technological advances that assure comfort to its guests in every aspect”. Yes, quite. You can get as far as the lighthouse and enjoy views across to Menorca (on a good day). The sights on the peninsula are truly stunning.

Inca

You now mercifully pass by Inca on the way from Palma to Alcudia, thanks to the motorway extension. It is one of Mallorca’s larger towns and is singularly unlovely. It is though the centre of the island’s leather trade, and there are several factory outlets where you can get high-quality stuff - shoes, bags, coats, jackets. It has an enormous market on a Thursday, and it is possible to arrange excursions to this.

Muro

Architecturally quite interesting and historic, it was declared a “town” in 1300. Muro is indicative of a “real” Mallorca, though like its neighbour Sa Pobla, it is assuming a more cosmopolitan air. Places of interest include the Ethnology Museum of Mallorca.

Pollensa

A charming town, guarded by the mountain Puig Maria. A fair amount of history here, exemplified by, for instance, the Roman bridge (in truth something of a
disappointment) and the Calvari steps. Pollensa has a strong artistic and musical heritage, a school of art having been established in the early 20th century and the annual Festival of Pollensa attracting classical performers from various countries. There are some first-rate restaurants, and Pollensa is blessed with attractive squares and their cafes.

For more detailed information on Pollensa visit - www.thepollensaguide.com

Puerto Pollensa

Separated from the town of Pollensa by some 5 kilometres, Puerto Pollensa is a most attractive resort, much smaller than Puerto Alcudia and generally quieter. That said, it has a surprising number of nightspots in a relatively small area in the centre.
There is a good beach, a marina and yacht club, plenty of things to do on the water, and diverse restaurants.

Some say that its “exclusive” feel has been partially lost these past few years. Puerto Pollensa is about 7 kilometres from Alcudia along the coast road. For information on Puerto Pollensa and Pollensa, we recommend www.thepollensaguide.com and - if you go there - the guide “El Puente”, available at tourist offices and many other places.


Highlighted beach and sea places : Sail&Surf Pollensa

Sa Pobla

A town inland that lies past the far side of S’Albufera and around which there is a substantial amount of market gardening. Not a tourist place as such, and in August much of it closes down, as is common with “working” towns. In summer though there are music events, in particular a jazz festival.

Son Serra de Marina

Some 8 kilometres past Ca’n Picafort you’ll come across Son Serra de Marina. This is a bizarre place that gives the impression of being a development still in progress or one that has been forgotten. Apart from the small nautical club and a few bars/restaurants, there’s nothing here. It can feel like a ghost-town even in summer, yet it covers a fair size area with roads laid out on a grid basis like much of Ca’n Picafort.

The beach here is popular for naturism. Off the main road just after the turning into Son Serra is Rancho Grande, which lives up to its name as it is grande (big). Horse-riding, wagons, barbecues - it’s a good place.

Highlighted excursion : Rancho Grande

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General observations

Driving

Mallorca has a poor record for accidents, and there are a load of nutters around. If you hire a car, and there is plenty of choice - Vanrell and Autos Arbona being just two agencies - here are some tips or things to watch out for:

1. Roundabouts : Indicating at roundabouts can be confusing if it occurs at all. Just make sure where the guy on the roundabout is going before pulling out.

2. Pedestrian crossings : As most drivers here ignore these, watch out in case someone’s too close behind you. Shunting is a very common type of accident, and is partly explained by the fact that drivers don’t expect the car in front to stop. On the wide Carretera Arta, don’t be too surprised if someone overtakes you at a crossing - hopefully when the people using it have passed!

3. Turning left : Two things to watch out for. Don’t cross continuous lines in the road, and - on the Carretera Arta - don’t turn left at traffic lights.
There are in fact no-left turn signs. It can be confusing to know what to do, but you always have to turn right and immediately double back. If the police see you turning left where you shouldn’t, they’ll fine you.

4. Turning right : When turning right, especially onto the Carretera Arta, check that all is clear not only to the left but also to the right. Fortunately the natural instinct for Briitsh drivers would be to do this as if there’s one big rule for driving here, it is to expect the unexpected. It’s been our experience to start to pull out only to realise that someone is overtaking and therefore on our side of the road or for there to be a cyclist or runner coming along in seemingly the wrong direction.

5. Cyclists : In the summer there are fewer cyclists around, but in spring there are many, especially cycle teams. The cycle lanes along the Carretera Arta are not that wide, so do look to give a wide berth. Again don’t be too surprised if a cyclist appears to be going in the wrong direction - this happens all the time!

6. Under-taking : On the main roads it is quite common for someone on a scooter (or even occasionally a car) to go past on your inside. Always check to your right to see who may be there.

7. Mobile phones : The use of mobiles while driving is banned, not that you would know it.

8. Accessories : Make sure you have the required items in your hire car, such as the hazard triangle and luminous jackets. Check with your car-hire agency that you do have everything.

9. Speed limits : The motorway is 120kph, the Carreteras (main roads) vary as they are dotted with speed restrictions. The Carretera Arta, through Puerto Alcudia and the pre-bridge part of Playa de Muro is 60kph. And that’s probably too fast.

10. Side roads : By which we mean the ones that run parallel to the Carretera Arta. These can be an accident waiting to happen. Though there is not always a sign to do so, as a matter of course, always give way to a car exiting the Carretera.

11. Drink driving : Random checks are commonplace, especially late at night. To be safe, just don’t do it.

Hours/time

The working day for many shops starts at 10:00am, finishes for lunch at anything from 13:00 to 14:00 and then starts agan from 16:30 or 17:00 till around 20:00 or 21:00. Many essentially tourist shops stay open all day, including supermarkets. The main supermarkets (Caprabo, Mercadona and Eroski Syp) have long hours, normally to 21:00 and are open Sundays till 14:00 in summer. Watch out for local holidays as these can mean that places are shut. Banks close at 14:00. Bars, cafes and restaurants will tend to vary.

Some restaurants will close for two to three hours from around 16:00, and some will close one day a week. In the evenings, the kitchens are open till pretty late, some into the early morning.

The Spanish sense of time differs to British in the sense that “mornings” extend to 14:00, “afternoons” finish at 20:00, and evenings ... well, who knows. The concept of midday (mediodía) is a very loose one. It normally never means 12:00, but any time till 14:00.

Keeping in touch

Most hotels have Internet facilities and you’ll find these in some bars and at Estanc Jofre. British newspapers are available on the day at numerous places. There is also a local English-language paper, “The Daily Bulletin”.
Telephone kiosks abound, and cards are available at newspaper and tobacco outlets.

Language

The indigenous language is Mallorquin, a dialect of Catalan (though many claim it to be a language in its own right). Spanish - or more strictly speaking Castellano - is spoken by all local folk as well. The Mallorquin accent is very different to Spanish, and is quite different to Catalan spoken on the mainland. Just some examples of how Castellano and Catalan differ - buenos días (good morning) is bon dia; adiós (goodbye) is adéu; de acuerdo (agreed or ok) is d’acord.

English is widely spoken but often not very well. Hotel staff will generally speak English well, certainly at reception, and bar/restaurant staff (those that aren’t British that is) will normally have sufficient to handle orders. At chemists and banks, English is normally spoken. But there are plenty of places where English won’t be spoken or only spoken poorly, the main supermarkets for instance.

Medical

Do make sure to have insurance. There are a number of doctors’ surgeries, especially in Puerto Alcudia, as well as dentists. There are two hospitals - Hospital d’Alcudia, which is in Alcudia town, and Hospital General de Muro, which is in Las Gaviotas just inside Playa de Muro. These are both private, but insurances are usually ok. There are two chemists in Alcudia, one in the port itself, one near to the Magic Center, one by the bay of Alcudia (next to the Eden Alcudia hotel) and another in Playa de Muro. English is normally not a problem in the chemists.

Pirated goods

Do not be surprised if you are approached by guys offering CDs, DVDs, sunglasses, watches, jewellery. This is all fake, and often complete crap. Would you pay 90 euros for some fake goldie chain?

Post offices

There is, perhaps regrettably, no post office in Puerto Alcudia. The main Post Office is in the old town opposite the Mercadona supermarket. As it is the only one it can get very busy and you may have to queue a while. There is also a sort of sub post office at the municipal building in Playa de Muro which also houses the tourist office, police and Guardia Civil. Its hours are more limited than the main post office. There are numerous yellow post boxes, and stamps for things such as postcards can normally be bought with the cards. Stamp in Spanish is “sello”, pronounced “say-o”.

Safety / Police

The resorts are mercifully quite crime-free. Police and the Guardia Civil are pretty much in evidence, and there is a keenness to promote the emergency number 112 if you have any problems.

Inevitably there is some crime but mostly petty theft.

Do take particular care at the markets and even at bus stops, where pickpockets can be active. And do also watch out for people approaching you offering carnations and the like. They are often looking to distract you while someone else liberates an item of value from your person. Just walk away and don't get involved. (Thanks to Victoria for bringing this to our attention.)

The local police office for Alcudia is behind the bull-ring in the northern part of the town and for Playa de Muro the office is in the municipal building where you can also find the Guardia Civil. The Guardia Civil office for Alcudia is actually in Puerto Alcudia on the road Via Corneli Atic close to the BP petrol station and horse roundabout.

Tourist information

There is a tourist office in the old town of Alcudia, one in the Paseo Maritimo in the port, another in Ciudad Blanca at the top of Avenue Pedro Mas y Reus, as well as one in Playa de Muro (in the municipal building). Hours of opening vary. The Alcudia and Playa de Muro offices are open most of the year. We work closely with the tourist offices and can only say how helpful the staff are at each office.

Both Alcudia and Muro produce their own published information, which can be obtained from the offices, and provide all manner of other information on excursions etc. as well as the independent local guide, “Hello-Alcudia”, which is also to be found in numerous hotels and other places.

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